Gold has been a symbol of beauty and value for centuries, but not all gold jewellery is the same. The carat, alloy composition, and colour all influence how a piece looks, feels, and wears over time. If you're deciding between 9ct, 14ct, or 18ct gold - or choosing between yellow, white, and rose gold - this guide will help you make an informed decision.
Gold Carat: What Does It Really Mean?
Gold in its purest form (24ct) is soft and malleable, making it unsuitable for everyday jewellery. To enhance its strength and adjust the colour, it is alloyed with other metals like silver, copper, and palladium. The carat (ct) refers to the proportion of pure gold within the alloy:
- 9ct gold – Contains 37.5% pure gold, with the remaining 62.5% made up of alloy metals. This makes it more scratch-resistant and affordable but slightly less rich in colour.
- 14ct gold – Contains 58.5% pure gold, offering a balance between durability and gold content.
- 18ct gold – Contains 75% pure gold, making it richer in colour with a denser luxurious weight.
Gold Value & Pricing
Because 18ct gold contains double the pure gold of 9ct, its intrinsic material value is also about twice as much, with 14ct being in-between the two. The relative affordability of 9ct makes it a popular choice for heavy items that require a lot of gold like bangles. However 18ct is often preferred for fine jewellery and engagement rings due to its richer colour, prestige, and better durability on fine detail (like claws)
Yellow, White, or Rose Gold?
Gold’s natural colour is a bright yellow, but by altering the mix of alloy metals, we can create different shades.
- Yellow Gold: Created by alloying pure gold with silver and copper. 18ct yellow gold has a rich, warm hue, while 9ct yellow gold is lighter and more coppery due to its lower gold content.
- White Gold: Made by mixing gold with white metals like palladium and silver. It is not a “true” white and has a natural greyish or yellowish tone depending on the ct. To achieve a bright, platinum-like finish, white gold is often rhodium plated - a thin layer of rhodium (a platinum-group metal) that enhances whiteness. Over time, rhodium plating wears off, requiring reapplication every 1–3 years for rings, though less frequently for items like earrings or necklaces.
- Rose Gold: A distinctive pink-toned gold, achieved by increasing the copper content in the alloy. Higher-carat rose golds have a softer blush tone, while 9ct rose gold has a stronger pink due to the lower gold content and higher proportion of copper. We additionally offer two shades of rose gold - pink gold and red gold. Red gold has a stronger, richer colour, while pink gold has a softer, more delicate hue, giving you more options to find the perfect tone for your jewellery.
Durability and Hardness of 9ct vs 18ct Gold
An often misrepresented subject within the jewellery industry, understanding the distinctions between 9ct and 18ct gold is essential when selecting jewellery, as their differences in composition significantly impact their hardness, durability, and overall performance.
Composition and Hardness
As we have already touched on, 9ct gold contains half the pure gold content of 18ct, and a higher proportion of alloy metals. The higher proportion of alloy metals, like copper, in 9ct gold make it technically harder than 18ct gold. However, this increased hardness does not equate to better durability. In fact, 9ct gold’s brittleness can make it more prone to stress fractures and cracking over time, and causes the metal to wear away more quickly. Conversely, 18ct gold with its higher gold content is more malleable and less prone to cracking, allowing it to withstand daily wear more effectively.
Some jewellers may claim that 9ct gold is more durable due to its hardness, but this can be misleading. Hardness refers to scratch resistance, whereas durability relates to how well a metal withstands wear over time. While 9ct may be more resistant to surface scratches, it is also more brittle and susceptible to breaking under pressure, whereas 18ct gold, though softer, is more ductile and longer-lasting.
Density and Weight
Gold’s density contributes to the weight and feel of jewellery. 18ct gold, with its higher gold content, is denser than 9ct gold. This density not only imparts a luxurious heft to the piece but also enhances its durability. Over time, the denser structure of 18ct gold allows it to withstand the rigours of daily wear better than 9ct, making it a preferred choice for fine jewellery. This is particularly relevant for delicate details like filigree and claws, but less important for heavy pieces like bangles or chunky rings!
What about 14ct?
The properties of 14ct sit in-between 9ct and 18ct, being both scratch resistant and durable. It's a popular choice for people who want a higher quality metal, but perhaps don't like the rich colour or premium price tag of 18ct.
Choosing the Right Gold for Your Jewellery
Your choice of gold depends on several factors, including aesthetics, durability, and practicality.
For stone-set rings and high-wear jewellery, 18ct gold is often preferred for its rich colour and durability, though 14ct is a great alternative too. White gold is popular for engagement rings, but if you don’t want the upkeep of rhodium plating, platinum may be a better choice. For larger pieces like bangles, heavy chains, or chunky rings, 9ct gold is often ideal as it is lightweight, durable, and more affordable while still maintaining a luxurious look.
Whether you're investing in an engagement ring or choosing an everyday gold piece, understanding the differences between gold types helps you select the best option for your needs. If you’d like to see the variations in gold colour and quality in person, feel free to visit us - we’d be happy to guide you through your options.
